Prusa belt tension too high reddit

70K subscribers in the prusa3d community. According to Prusa, the process works on MK3, MK4 and XL models. Now retrying with a much tighter grouping. Now they're reading X 283 and Y 301. Imagine it is a fictive count of teeth in circulation. It can cause compounding wear in your parts and it will increase the draw of your steppers. They say that the belt status reading should be anywhere from 240 plus or minus 40 so in other words a value between 200 and 280 is good. Another test you can make for belt tension is to hold the stepper motor shaft with pliers and try to move the plate or the extruder. It would not have shipped from Prusa like that. As for tightening, the old "strum" method seems adequate. trying to get to 200 and you will break something. The grub screw which holds the pully that drives the y-axis belt is loose and slipping. Then check LCD-menu -> Support -> Belt-status. Oct 24, 2023 · It works with Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/S+ with the belt GT2. Reply. 45 . X: 240 Y: 261. An inadequately fastened pulley is the most common cause of layer shifts in my experience. ago. Prusa officially changed the XL's default nozzle from 0. I have seen people take the cheapest of ender clones, and make precise parts. Either you’ve taken it apart; not purchased from Prusa and therefore is it really new or you’ve got an incorrectly built machine (they can trace whoever assembled it so you should contact them) in which case strip it down; repack all bearings and My MK4 makes a loud squealing noise when completing fast angled zig zag lines or small circles (so essentially both grid and gyroid infills, among others) when the x and y axis are both making several rapid direction changes. The belt being slightly too loose won't cause a layer shift unless it's loose enough for the pulley teeth to be skipped over, and that would Prusa have an app for the Mk4 that tells you the belt tension by the frequency the belts make when plucked. Once I reassembled in order for the x carriage to move easily the belt needs to be too loose. First layers look really good (maybe slightly slightly too squished as there is a faintly, faintly detectable "rim" or shift at the bottom of my good Benchy, gonna make a post tomorrow when the current print is finished so I have more reference material) and I have had no problems with sticking (using the textured powder coated sheet and What I think were great upgrades to my prusa. Posted : 27/08/2020 4:50 pm. 5S, a great way to check whether your belt is at Jul 29, 2020 · Running the belt test, the Y axis shows 280, which I’m thinking is fine (should be between 240 and 300?). Pictures of boxes and… Gaps between infill and perimeter. What's important is that the belts be tight but not so tight as to warp the parts. Alcohol is necessary between prints, but only need to wash when you notice oily film or have adhesion problems. For Gaston : in the "User Manual for 3Dprinters" at chap 13. I recalibrated xyz, lubricated all rails, put a fan Any time I try to dock or pickup tool #1 I get a crash. The box on the far right of the row pointed to with the red arrow, look at the Turn the whole printer over to its side to access the bottom of the printer (left picture). I've tensioned my belt with the extruder to the left. The inbuilt measuring of belt tension on my MK3 does not appear to function correctly. I've rebuilt my X Keep testing just the first few layers until you find results that work for you. At the price point of the mk4 it's hard to believe the accelerometer was where they decided to cut cost. No, it's pretty simple. This can be more apparent if the belts are too tight. Verify that your X axis pulley is correctly aligned and not touching the X motor. It starts at about 5mm up on the z axis and shifts backwards about 10mm. Dec 20, 2018 · For an average build machine, the "sweet spot" figure will end up somewhere near the Prusa specified range. I've been super lazy about getting it installed but I printed out a much saner solution for Y-axis (and a matching one for X-axis) tensioning. Ranging from different belt tensions also the recommended belt tension from Prusa Tuner app, different stock profiles with and without input shaping, different environments, inside/outside Enclosure, on hard floor, all of them have VFA to a varying degree. With the motor as far toward the carriage as possible, the tension on the belt is likely to be less than optimum. Btw instead of having to print bench y’all the way each time, stop the print after a few layers or slice away a chunk of the model in Prusa slicer. ----. TL;DR - is my spacing just crap and so this is expected Other guess would be your fan speed/part cooling is too high. No resolution for non-working XL : r/prusa3d. I'd be surprised if your issue is loose belts. so you your belts can be anywhere from 200 to 280. If needed, follow the steps in the alignment paragraph to fully align the two Followup - I reprinted the same g-code after adjusting the pulleys and double checking everything and got a layer shift even worse a few layers above (~90% of the print was done). prusa3d. 2> This clip that takes some stress off from your heat bed wiring and prevents it from sagging. I have gotten to the point of checking the x-axis belt tension, in assembling my new MK4. When I had the printer on a folding plastic table the noise Apr 30, 2023 · Correct Belt Tension, resonances, and input shaping. Your print plate is backwards and looks like it is not even laying flat on the bed. in this scenario, the lower the number, the tighter the belts. I tightened the Y really but really struggled with the X. The harder one is to tighten everything that needs to be tightened: carriage, belts, rod holders, frame, etc. Focusing on the step that occurs ove rand over in the infill pattern suggests that the x axis is slipping or jamming while the extruder is moving diagonally, I'll keep focusing on the first layer until you get that dialed in. 3> This Y belt tensioner is a way better system than the My Prusa was running perfectly then I started having failed prints the x axis belt test was failing and moving it manually was very stiff in places. On a bad machine with poorly sliding axes, the belt status will be at the lower end of the range. With firmware 3. You can rotate the printer about 45 degrees left to Prusa MK4 build - x-axis too tight. Pictures of boxes and… Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. After selecting the printer type and axis, the app shows in real time whether the tension is optimal, too high or too low. Share. You can definitely clean the rods and retention the belts, but know that FDM printing will never give you a perfect surface finish. The belt fit onto those loops right at the end of their length. Aug 21, 2023 · Belt Tuner App - https://belt. Reply reply. Nov 28, 2023 · Now it's easy to adjust belt tension using the provided hex key, reaching above and below the LCD screen. Screws required: two M3x16 (or M3x18, I think those would be fine too) There should be a check for the belt tension in the menus somewhere, I don't remember exactly where, but you can look it up in the online knowledgebase. I've been printing decently (as far as I can figure) but wanted to check the belt tension numbers again. Overall, Input Shaping without an accelerometer is the exact opposite user experience that Prusa normally goes for. You can get the fysetc prusa bear clone on aliexpress for $358 and it performs better than a stock prusa that costs $750. Get your grub screws properly tight. If your value is under (or close to) 240, you need to loosen the belt. Idler screw tension. Don't forget to re run self test after you make a tension adjustment so the values update under support. To use, just point the iPhone microphone at the belt and repeatedly pluck the belt until it gets a steady sample. The lower the number, the tighter the belt is. The belt tensioner location will vary, depending which X axis you are using. Check along the entire length of all your belts to be sure that a belt isn't twisted or slipping off of a pulley or idler, that both belts can move freely everywhere without getting caught on anything, etc. If yours didn't, search for "maintenance" in the knowledgebase and it tells you what it OK to use. 1. com) You want the number between 240 and 300 (275~). The belt is secured on the carriage for the extruder but the x-axis motor has rotation capability. If it's too loose, you haven't wrapped it around the screw properly, or you've wrapped too little of it on there. It will stretch out in a couple of weeks. Any more and you will cause damage and / or premature wear on bearings etc. Alcohol won’t get rid of the oil, only warm soapy water will. Show off your prints, or ask a question… I meant the X axis looks lose. There's no need to stress too much about the readings. Log in to be able to post. Prusa Belt tuner (beta) Tune your printer. Extruder cables are not routed through the cable management built into the x-axis cradle. The whole process will take a few hours. Tighten your belt until plucking it gives a low bass note - that is tight enough. It can also pull your assembly out of alignment and damage your belts, if you go overboard. It is important to have this tension correct. Pictures of boxes and shipping notices are considered low-effort and will be removed. If that doesn't get it to where you need it to go you'll have to tear the extruder off the X axis and tighten it. At my work we have industrial CNC that uses belts. Generalizing from Mersenne's Law, For GT2 belts, the frequency should be approx 3600/L. New to 3D printing? This is actually a very high quality layer finish, especially on a lighter colour filament, which will show layers more. Check the pinion on the x axis stepper as suggested, the pulley on the other side and the path of the belt. com/article/adjusting-b That may be binding. Also if the extruder idler tension is too tight or too loose causing feed issues. Too much tension can be much worse than too little tension. 4 Loose X- and/or Y-axis belts it say => values 240 +- 40 are good ; so for you it is near. r/prusa3d. Ignore the numbers. The noise is much louder in person and pretty high pitch. You want the number between 260 and 290 (275~). Read on to learn how to tighten your 3D printer's belts! Advertisement. I thought well I haven't printed that much it must be a problem with the belt tension. I just pulled everything apart again and regreased the bearing and put everything back together again and I still have the same result. I figured those were too loose. The belts for the MK2s are cut at the right length so that you can't really do them too loose. The gauge should be 3D printed, and shows the belt tension. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. After lowering it all went OK. Like a guitar tuner. I started with loosening the top screw and have since progressed to taking out the belt and putting it in looser, adjusting the x axis motor position a bit, and taking out the top screw completely. You just loosen the bolts that hold the stepper on the X axis, tighten the tensioning bolt on top, and retighten the stepper bolts. Original Prusa MK4 Original Prusa XL Original Prusa MK3/S/+ Original Prusa MINI The tension values are essentially a measurement of the overall force required to move the axis (from what I read), and I can't help but wonder with these belts being so easy to bend on a radius if we should be seeing a different set of recommended tension values for the newer Gates belts. For a superior built machine, the belt status will be higher than spec when the belt is at sufficient tension. There is a belt tensioning section in the prusa help guides that show a tool to be used to tell you the right tension. Make sure the grub screws on the motors are tight and at least one is on a flat part of the shaft. If too loose the pulley will not be able to "grab" the filament, while if it is too tight the extruder motor can overexert itself and They should be secure but not too tight. This worked fine for me so far. I did it with paper like this, and first I used body of ziptie but probe was too high, unable to find calibration points. Then dry and wipe with 99% IPA. -0. Sep 21, 2018 · This can be measured using various free phone app such as 'n-track'. I'd start by checking your belts and pulleys. Ignore the number. 5 mm Allen key ( orange arrows ). The lock assembly on the tool changer doesn't line up too well with the pins on the dock (see photo - pins appear too high and to the left). Here are a couple photos of the belt in place, and the belt slipping as well. Tighten screws, tension belts, lower print speed, lower print fan, check for wet filament. 117K subscribers in the FixMyPrint community. 39Hz is right on for a belt ~92 cm from stepper to pulley. This is likely the issue. Don't touch to adjust. Once that the MK4 kit will be shipped we will surely return to speak about the correct belt tension. Messing with the belt itself it is notably looser than before but the x Belt tension. Step 10 X axis belt pre-tension. You will see some steps on the walls if the Y (or X) and extruder are stepping perfectly together. I'd suggest asking there for details. How to fit the Tension Meter This sounds like there's a mechanical issue somewhere that is leading to uneven belt tension. I retensioned the belt and now the test is at least not failing anymore. Prusa also has a webapp tool in beta for the MK4 and XL. I've always tensioned my belts so that they output a frequency close If you have an MK3 or MK3S you can go to the LCD menu -> Support -> Belt Status. Maybe there's debris compressing the spring more than intended, causing too high tension. On MK3/S/+, run the Self-test or the Belt test, from Calibration on the LCD. Prusa i3 MK3 Y-axis The noise doesn't have to be high (higher tension = higher tone) but it should vibrate enough to sound like a very low guitar string. Aug 26, 2020 · RE: MK3S belt tension - how to adjust. I think due to the heat in the enclosure the tension of the belt was reduced. 6 . If you think about the belt constantly rolling over the 107 votes, 36 comments. In this way, Prusa wants to make setup easier, especially for beginners. Have made sure everything is tight, especially the middle screws on the dock (the ones the instructions say must be tightened very hard). The steel plate is backwards the holes go to the front and the notch to the back. In my case the after tightening screws it put a bit more tension on the belt. Printer was shifted a good 5cm so was just spewing filament around. Yes, there is a slicer setting - but your problem appears to be a y-shift between when it printed the boxes and when it started first layer fill. 185 . BlueFalchion MendelMax3 • 7 yr. 24Gospel • 7 yr. Comment deleted by user. You adjust the tension screws on the x axis to correct this problem. Show off your prints, or ask a question. If your value over (or close to) 300, you need to tighten We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Furthermore, I've got the bearings nice and packed, replaced bearings, rods are clean, belts are tensioned, belt status is around 265 on both axis and my prusa belt tension meter is showing a good range, heat sinks on the TMC2208s and X and Y motors (none of my motors actually get that hot at all). For example, after noting X tension was 290, I released the belt one notch (I LOOSENED the belt) but the X tension reading actually went up to 300, yet the belt is clearly too easy to pinch Printed Solid sells genuine Gates belts for the MK3S. the Techs have a fancy tool that tests the vibration of the belt to determine if it's tight enough. gamblekat • 4 yr. View community ranking In the Top 10% of largest communities on Reddit. I have tried all kinds of tests on my two MK4s. connect. I've found a few options on Thingiverse and Printables but they seem a bit convoluted Change the way you tension your belt! | Download free 3D printable STL models Facebook Twitter Reddit Pinterest. 5cm to the right layer by layer. Reply reply Add a Comment. The reviewer spent an additional $151 on new nozzles, pushing the total cost over $8,000 AUD ($5,200 USD). • 7 yr. It should be moved all the way to the right Tension the belt, and check the tension after tightening the x-axis stepper. it’s not meant for the MK3 but after building my MK4 and using the app, I tried it against the mk3 and it gave me pretty in-line results with the mk4 Give the app a shot just to see if your belts are super over tight. optimal is about 255. If you have the screen attached outside, for the y axis, I would losen the y-idler a bit, tighten the bolt under the y carriage (as you would do normally to tighten the belt) and fine tune the tension from the y-idler bolts after installation in the enclosure. Today, I attempted to re-tighten the belt, but it slipped out immediately upon tightening and running Hi there, I find the stock X-axis belt tensioning system on my MK3S+ a bit difficult to use and I can't quite get the tension I want. After print I ran the axis tests again and my y axis failed. Update: I did achieve some success decreasing the noise! I tried the lcd with no change. The lengths in this article are for an Ender 3, so you'd need to measure your belt length and do the math to get the correct frequency you want. That’s a huge range and I can tell you with great certainty that the range is too big. For the MK2. I find if there is a lot of resistance trying to pinch the belt to itself it is good. The easy fix is to reduce you print speed and/or acceleration, plus printing the longer axes of your object at an 45° angle off of X and Y. com/More information about adjusting the belt tension on your MK4: https://help. Prusa Knowledge Base | Adjusting belt tension MK3/S (prusa3d. 6mm to 0. For some reason the thick outside wall decided to not be a vertical wall but moved about 1. Printing one of these little testers would have saved me many failed prints! I recently repaired an old Prusa mk2s and it's been working phenomenally for quite a long time but recently I started using PETG on it for the first time and it started having major layer shifting but only on the y-axis. Thing that fixed that is lowering print fan and speeds and raising temp to 220 as the PrusaSlic3r profiles have wayyy too I call it, “the range Prusa says it should be in. They should besically be like a string, if you pluck it it makes a boing sound. Lines like those make me think of the same cracking/line issues I have with the Prusament that came with my MK3S using the stock settings. Long story, but I assembled my Mk3S with the X-axis belt too tight. I am just reprinting the same model (same settings) in a different filament. probably the Y-Axis gear motor or belt tension itself. If the printer is off you should not feel much resistance when turning the motor manual. Numbers are OK. Once you tighten the belt on both sides, ensure that the two sides are perfectly aligned. Belt tension is very forgiving so you have room to play with both the top and bottom screws. May 17, 2018 · Re: X-Belt Tension Adjustment.     Go to prusa3d. I know this might not be too terribly helpful but unfortunately belts are a bitch for people new to 3D printing. Checking Belt Tension Gets Easier For (Some) Prusa 3D Printers thirsty but too lazy to if you go in to about printer and then down to belt status it will tell you what your belt tension is. Follow the instructions in the video below to adjust the belt. Please find packing photos attached. The idea is that the belt should be tight enough so the axis doesn’t move if the motor is stationairy, dont overtighten it though. I think if you want to do it frequently, doing it by ear (a correct belt tension will sound a particular note when "plucked") or using a chromatic instrument tuner. If needed to remove the belt for whatever reason (some repairs for example), it's easy now: just unscrew the two screws on the idler (no need to flip the whole printer). For me, i just make sure it doesn't sag much and vibrates like a guitar string. It didn't cause any issues until I started printing ASA. 68K subscribers in the prusa3d community. Turn the printer back right side up and fine adjust the belt All things related to Prusa 3D printers. You can use a brush, a small broom, or a vacuum to remove debris. The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the most optimal prints. Let me know if this isnt clear and i try to explain it another way! Edit: Also the self test should let you know if it is Dec 8, 2021 · Published Dec 8, 2021. ” For those wanting to find that info it’s page 71 of the handbook. According to discussion on the Prusa forums, the belt measurements are based on motor resistance not actual tension. Turn the printer on its side (power supply side) and run the y back and forth, carefully inspect to see what might be causing that jerkiness. Would you recommend an upgrade for it? I'm hoping for something easy to install, that doesn't require changing too many parts. 1> These ribbon cable clips are great and are a much more elegant solution than stuffing the ribbon cable in the extrusions. Bearings being too tight can affect this value without the belt being Wondering if my x belt is too tight or if I should just let it stretch out some more over a week or so before trying to adjust it. If the plate is not flat you will get errors. Experiencing VFA on my two MK4s not my MK3S. Below is my latest email to Prusa in a 20-email long thread. Original Prusa MK3 (S) X axis: tensioner This lets you go in later as the belt inevitably stretches and just tighten it slightly. They shouldn't be too tight, or the motors will struggle and heat up a lot more than they should. Every time I run a self test I get an x axis belt tension of around 170-180. I would not trust a random seller on Amazon to send a real Gates belt or even a high quality copy, especially when a genuine Gates belt is a few bucks from a reliable source. Slide one end of the belt out from the belt holder (right picture), move the belt in 2-3 'teeth' ( blue arrow ), and push it back into the slot using the 1. The 1st one performed wonderfully so I was lured into purchasing more machines (total 2 MK3S+ and 2 Pay really close attention to belt tensioning instructions. . However it seems that it is already too tight (according to the phone app), so is there something I can do now, short of disassembling the whole extruder to get access to the x-axis belt again? Any good ideas is welcome The correct range of tension is actually fairly small, and there is an objective way to adjust it, rather than "that sounds about right". The Original Prusa FFF printers and upgrades use a screw (s) with a spring (s) to provide tension between the filament and the filament pulley. Difficult to know from just one picture but it looks like all the deviation is just in one direction, I'd look for a lose grub nut on the gear on. The X was 278 and Y 301. 10+, during the "Self Test" the printer should check the belts for tension and will tell you if they are loose. Your mileage may vary. The belt test says: X-axis: 209 -> 217 Y-axis: 267 -> 269 I red that the values should be between 240 and 300 and that lower values are better. Aug 3, 2021 · I determined the higher the number the looser the tension, so 0=no movement (in theory) and 255 (assuming this is the high number) would be loose belt. That's fine, mine was the same right after The belt was running against the plastic when the motor carriage reached the opposite end. You'll ideally I tension the belts on my D300VS using the Easy Tension iPhone app. 4 Prusa machines later, I am done. Simply place the tension meter on the belt and check the deviation of the indicator whether the belt is correctly tightened (indicator between MIN - MAX), or too tight (indicator above MAX), or loose (indicator below MIN). Yours seem ok, but they are more for the overall tension of the axis instead of just the belt. My printer came with a tube of lubricant. If the belt is even close to being tensioned correctly it fails calibration and reads that there is an obstruction. The X axis tension, on the other hand, seems to be a bit too tight with a value of 139-146 If this is indeed too tight, then the obvious solution would be to disassemble the E axis back and loosen the belt. I can't pull any tighter on the X. That is, if you’re only concerned with first layer calibration. One is bad idler tension, which can be a simple misadjustment or even something like a tension spring that's damaged or out of tolerance. Note : low value correspond to high tension, high value to less tension of the belt The application determines the belt tension by measuring the frequency of the vibration generated by strumming it. Dealing with some layer shifting. It looks like your layer has shifted. Some things like fan speeds of less than 60%, according to this CNC Kitchen video , or maybe your bed temp isn't high enough. 240 is on the tight end but not by much. The right 3D printer belt tension is crucial for quality prints. My X = 200 Y=245, seems the 245 on the Y moves freely, maybe a bit loose, but probably is fine since I do not know what the 245 really means. [deleted] •. These values can be deceiving. nismoskys. I fixed my belt tension, I did made sure the screws near the bearings weren't too tight, I thought the layers were going down silky smooth (they were) and then another crash detected. Prusa is at this point more a social phenomenon than about the hardware. Use the built in Prusa tension test and their recommended numbers. Finally I took off the x-axis bracket, rolled the bearings just a bit to make sure the mark is horizontal, made sure to tighten the middle screw of the x-axis bracket first, and tightened all the screws pretty tight. Bear X axis (BearExxa, BearMera, Bondtech on Bear X axis): tensioner is on the right of the X axis (X end idler). Butthurt_Beluga. I've purchased 4 Prusa machines and so far 3 out of 4 have required substantial troubleshooting. The values should not be under 240 and above 300, but there is no unique ideal value. 4. Prusa released updates for the XL's firmware and slicer, improving multi-color print logic and adding missing documentation. the best values seem to be between 255-270. 5 and MK2. If you can make the belt twang you are good. You only have to take off the back of the extruder if you've already maxed out the tensioner bolt. Then get your belts dialed in. 16. Sep 18, 2022 · Clicking and/or grinding filament can be caused by several things. Always make sure that the parts of the printer are clean. 4mm, which significantly improved print quality. but in reality if your belts are in the 260-270 range, you are good enough. Design a couple of spacers that you can put at each end of the x axis and you can adjust accordingly. 65K subscribers in the prusa3d community. All things related to Prusa 3D printers. A: Yes, it does – it’s vital for correct Input Shaper configuration (see above). I adjusted loosened the grub screws on the pulley, readjusted the pulley and moved the motor carriage back and forth until there was no contact between the plastic and the belt, and no contact between the belt and the ends metallic ends of the pulley. but that thing probably costs a a bit over half a grand. Copy link. Please select the printer type. The X axis seems a bit tight as I have been getting When attempting to tighten the x-axis belt, I've discovered that the slot and teeth are no longer able to hold the belt; it simply slips through with minimal effort. I'm not really sure where to go from here. The belt is under tension 24/7 whether you're printing or not, so stretching can occur during that time too. 0. The holders which attach the bearings to the bed are too tight and binding the bearings. After several hours of printing, various kinds of debris may start to accumulate around the printer parts or under the heatbed - pieces of filament, dust, scraps, broken supports, etc. Or something as simple as the spool not turning smoothly. Yeah, many things there are like "do it by feels" - belt tension, extruder idler, probe height, first layer quality. 255 is the sweet spot afaik. My next print will be that belt tension tool. I can see that the XL manual has been updated to use a PET gauge. There should be no significant movement, as in no 'slop' or 'play' of any significance. prusa says 240 +/- 40. Sep 1, 2023 · The new app analyzes belt vibration via the smartphone microphone. One screw needs to be aligned and tight against the flat of the motor shaft and the other just needs to be tight. . How to use it. After the belt is secured, the motor is rotated away from the carriage to provide additional tension. I know Prusa is trotting out the 1. This is super easy to do, btw. 5 looks fantastic to me. The lower the number, the more tight the belt is. id vk ha dj eg ku be yw dj xf